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Anthocyanin-free Sarracenia, also known as antho-free, lack all red pigmentation giving them a crisp, electric-green look!
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Sarracenia alata var. alata f. viridescens (Washington County, Alabama) is an anthocyanin-free form of the pale pitcher plant. Unlike typical alata...
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This is a really nice form of Sarracenia psittacina. The viridescens forms are anthocyanin free which means they do not contain any of the red pigm...
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Here's an unusual, but attractive, Sarracenia hybrid! This bright green hybrid is a cross of 2 anthocyanin-free (no red) parents in Sarracenia × gi...
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This bright little Sarracenia is the anthocyanin-free form of Sarracenia rubra subsp. gulfensis. This means that it contains no red pigmentation, m...
View full detailsSarracenia purpurea subsp. venosa var. venosa f. pallidiflora is a rare anthocyanin-free form of the southern purple pitcher plant. Stewart McPhers...
View full detailsSarracenia purpurea subsp. venosa var. burkii f. luteola
Sarracenia psittacina var. okefenokeensis f. luteoviridis (Sandy Creek Road, Bay County, Florida)
Sarracenia minor var. minor f. viridescens F2
There aren't many anthocyanin-free (no red) forms of Sarracenia Flava in cultivation and this particular clone is a beauty.
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Sarracenia flava f. viridescens 'Suspicion' is a well-known, all-green clone of Sarracenia flava that stands out in any collection. The only named ...
View full detailsSarracenia psittacina var. psittacina f. viridescens (Wewahitchka, Gulf County, Florida) is an unusual anthocyanin-free form of the parrot pitcher ...
View full detailsSarracenia flava f. viridescens (Shallotte, Brunswick County, North Carolina) is a rare anthocyanin-free form of the yellow pitcher plant. Originat...
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This plant is a rare, anthocyanin-free form of Sarracenia leucophylla. It originates from a specific location near Perdido in Alabama, USA. The 'vi...
View full detailsYes, most Sarracenia species are fully frost-tolerant and can live outside all year round in UK gardens, bog gardens, or patio pots. Species such as leucophylla and psittacina can be more sensitive and usually fare better in an unheated greenhouse.
No, unless you live in a very soft water area (<50ppm) do not use tapwater. Regular tap water contains minerals, lime, and chlorine that burn and kill the roots over time.
Always use collected rainwater, distilled water, or reverse-osmosis (RO) water.
Yes, Sarracenia need a cold winter rest period (roughly from Halloween to Valentine's Day) with lower temperatures (unheated greenhouses, cold frames, or bright sheds). Their old pitchers will turn brown and die back; this is completely natural. Trim away dead growth in late winter to prevent mould (botrytis).
Read more here: How to Keep Your Sarracenia Healthy Through Winter Dormancy
Use a specialist peat-free or low-nutrient carnivorous plant compost, typically mixed with perlite or equivalent for drainage. Never use standard multi-purpose garden compost, which contains too many nutrients.
Read more here: Sarracenia Soil Mix Guide: Simple Pitcher Plant Soil for Beginners
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